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• Preface
• 1 The Paradox of Impossible Knowledge
• 2 Large-Scale Weather Patterns
• 3 The Formation of a Depression
• 4 The Growth of Waves on the Ocean
• 5 Propagation of Free-Travelling Swell
• 6 Refraction
• 7 Wave-Breaking
• 8 How Waves Move Sediment
• 9 Surfing in the Storm
• 10 Local Winds on the Coast
• 11 The Temperature of the Water
• 12 The Tides
• 13 World Wave Climate
• 14 Forecasting the Waves Further Reading Glossary-Index Acknowledgements.
• (source: Nielsen Book Data)

• 1) Introduction-- 2) Large-scale Air Movements-- 3) Formation of a Depression-- 4) Growth of Waves on the Ocean-- 5) Propagation of Free-travelling Swell-- 6) Waves in Shallow Water-- 7) Wave-breaking-- 8) The Temperature of the Water-- 9) Local Winds on the Coast-- 10) The Tides-- 11) Rips-- 12) Forecasting
• 1: Basics-- 13) Forecasting
• 2: Inside the Black Box-- 14) Forecasting
• 3: Surfing in the Storm-- Further Reading-- Glossary-Index-- Acknowledgements.
• (source: Nielsen Book Data)

Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf. Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three? What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break? Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. It is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.
(source: Nielsen Book Data)
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is an introduction to the science of waves and oceanography from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and helps surfers to learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it, just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
(source: Nielsen Book Data)

• Preface.- Acronyms.- 1.Introduction and Background.- 2.Literature Survey on StochasticWave Models.- 3.A Bayesian Hierarchical Space-Time Model for Significant Wave Height.- 4.Including a Log-Transform of the Data.- 6.Bayesian Hierarchical Modelling of the Ocean Windiness.- 7.Application: Impacts on Ship Structural Loads.- 8.Case study: Modelling the Effect of Climate Change on the World's Oceans.- 9.Summary and Conclusions.- A.Markov Chain Monte Carlo Methods.- B.Extreme Value Modelling.- C.Markov Random Fields.- D.Derivation of the Full Conditionals of the Bayesian Hierarchical Space-Time Model for Significant Wave Height.- E.Sampling from a Multi-normal Distribution.
• (source: Nielsen Book Data)

This book provides an example of a thorough statistical treatment of ocean wave data in space and time. It demonstrates how the flexible framework of Bayesian hierarchical space-time models can be applied to oceanographic processes such as significant wave height in order to describe dependence structures and uncertainties in the data. This monograph is a research book and it is partly cross-disciplinary. The methodology itself is firmly rooted in the statistical research tradition, based on probability theory and stochastic processes. However, that methodology has been applied to a problem in the field of physical oceanography, analyzing data for significant wave height, which is of crucial importance to ocean engineering disciplines. Indeed, the statistical properties of significant wave height are important for the design, construction and operation of ships and other marine and coastal structures. Furthermore, the book addresses the question of whether climate change has an effect of the ocean wave climate, and if so what that effect might be. Thus, this book is an important contribution to the ongoing debate on climate change, its implications and how to adapt to a changing climate, with a particular focus on the maritime industries and the marine environment. This book should be of value to anyone with an interest in the statistical modelling of environmental processes, and in particular to those with an interest in the ocean wave climate. It is written on a level that should be understandable to everyone with a basic background in statistics or elementary mathematics, and an introduction to some basic concepts is provided in the appendices for the uninitiated reader. The intended readership includes students and professionals involved in statistics, oceanography, ocean engineering, environmental research, climate sciences and risk assessment. Moreover, the book's findings are relevant for various stakeholders in the maritime industries such as design offices, classification societies, ship owners, yards and operators, flag states and intergovernmental agencies such as the IMO.
(source: Nielsen Book Data)